Sunday, April 19, 2015

If I Did Tutorials, It Would Go Something Like This

One thing I am not is a teacher or a guru.  I am also middling about doing anything step by step.  BUT. BUTT.  Probably one of the most frequently read comments and questions I receive have to do with layering.  Specifically, I've been asked how I layer SUQQU eye shadows.  I have a default placement that I would like to share with you because literally, whether I feature that particular look in the context of a post or not, it is likely the placement I wear whenever I wear a SUQQU quad.

Alrightie then.  Get ready of so many pictures of my face that you're going to DIEE.  DIIEEEEE.  Here is what I am using to demonstrate my "technique."

  • SUQQU Blend Color Eye Shadow in 08 Mizuaoi (d/c)
  • Tom Ford liner in Espresso (here)
  • SUQQU eye shadow brushes in F, L, M (here)
  • (unpictured but helpful would be) a good small pencil brush for smudging liner.  I used RMK E
A note I will make is that you can use any SUQQU quad though it seems to work best in the old format of white base, dark matte, and two shimmers (quads 01-08).  I am using the Tom Ford liner because it smudges nicely, but can easily use a liquid or pen liner to create a wing, or any other soft pencil or gel liner in various colors to contrast, deepen or whatever.  And I'm using the SUQQU grey squirrel brushes, which apply generally sheerly, but you can use firmer bristled brushes like goat hair, or Canadian squirrel hair to get a stronger pigmented finished look.

OK, do the base makeup:
I'm wearing SUQQU Frame Fix Cream N 002 (here), Surratt Surrealiste Concealer 04 (here).  I've done my brows and I've primed my lids with Nars primer.
Apply the quad "base" shade:
Using a large fluffy brush (and in our example SUQQU L), I apply the white matte base shade all over my upper lids and along the lower lash line.
Nearly imperceptibly, it creates a nice smooth and even effect on the lids.

Apply the darkest shade to create shape on the eyes:
I like a paddle-shaped brush to do this step.  The flat side is helpful in patting on the shape on my upper lids while the tip has some level of precision and can apply along the lower lash line.  The patting motion gets me the most even and intense coverage of this color on my upper lids.  At this point, I'm not worried about blending, or evenness in application.  The additional layers of the other colors will help achieve a well blended look.  Most important is getting the shape you like (e.g., more round, or winged out in shape) and making it about the same on both eyes.
 My eyes are not even, so I often goof the "get both eyes about the same" part of it. :D  Eh, close enough.

Now the layering:
This is when I allow my brain to kick in.  I think about which of the two remaining color to show distinctly by itself on my upper lid, because that will be the last color I apply in the quad.  In the case of Mizuaoi, I have a distinct aversion to blue tones.  I'd rather use the pale blue shimmer shade as a layering mixer over the dark purply blue and use the peachy pink shade more prominently and therefore taking the edge off an all-blue look.

I use both the L and the M brush.  I use the L to sweep the pale blue shimmer shade on top of the dark blue I've already applied and slightly past the top edge of that dark blue shape.  That adds complexity to this look, right?  The main dark shade is layered with the pale blue on my mobile lid, and above the crease the pale blue stands alone.  It's a gradient!

The M brush is helpful with its pencil tip to apply the pale blue in a layer over the dark blue on the lower lash line.

Now layer some more more:
Ok, these quads come with a fourth color for a reason, so we're going to use it as the final layering shade.  After wiping the L brush and the M brush clean on a microfiber cloth (or tissue), I dust the peachy pink on the brush.  I sweep it on top of the inky purply blue, the pale blue on the upper lid with the L brush.  I make sure to extend the peachy pink shape higher up on the lid, so it can be unobscured by the purply blue, and the pale blue.  Complexity, right?

M brush is used to apply the peachy pink on the lower lash line.  In this case, I just focused its placement on the outer third of my lower lash line.  Improvising and tweaking these placements a little bit is easy to do and adds a little something different each time I wear these quads.
The only real blending I do is when I sweep the layers on top of the main dark shade.  That dumb phrase "it practically blends itself!" is kind of true!

Final touch is the liner application and mascara.  I put the Tom Ford Espresso in the lower waterline and along with upper lash line.  I use a pencil brush (RMK E) to smudge both lines softly, while adding a bit more of the dark shade from the quad to it to set it.
Here is the finished look, adding Rouge Bunny Rouge Impalpable Finishing Powder (here), and RBR Sea of Clouds liquid highlighter* on the high points of my face, Chanel Joue Contraste in Rose Ecrin, and Rouge Bunny Rouge sheer lipstick in Musings*.
For me, this is my fail safe placement.  When quads don't look good using this placement, those are the ones I tend to purge for one reason or another.  (When there is a cream pan, or a split pan, or eight colors, then I start to get confused!)

Whether this technique works for you or not would depend on probably a whole host of factors.  I have a very shallow crease, so layered gradients like this always work, while placements with dark crease + dark outer V are harder.  The general shape or profile of your eyes may or may not work with this technique the same way.  But why not give it a try and write back on how it works for you?  I think this would work well on those with monolids and hooded eyes like mine.

So satisfying posting twenty selfies in one post.  :D  This totally allows me to indulge in my narcissistic tendencies for like a good hour composing this post.  *scratches itch*  AAH!

Are there particular eye shadow placements you tend to favor?  Share your knowledge so I can learn!

* items were provided without charge by the brand/PR for my consideration.  However, all my opinions are my own!  Yes indeed!  Please check out my full disclosure policy statement here.


  1. Uhmmmmmm, Belly. I did say you should be the model and spokesperson for Suqqu. Also you gave flawless skin.

  2. I need to try this placement and layering technique! However, I have no Suqqu :( But I feel that would also work well with a Stila purpley-peachy palette I have. Thanks for sharing, Belly! <3

  3. Le Genou de ClaireApril 19, 2015 at 9:58 PM

    Belly!! I was just thinking of you when I saw this video:

    fast forward to 3:12. See the brush???? That's the floppy Surrat Eye brush in action! He said basically the brush makes the application very easy, sheer, and glowy, very easy to blend on the highlight too.

    O.k. sorry to go off on a tangent, we are talking about YOUR tutorial afterall :-D Love it, like it, and agree with Mini Belly.

  4. Oh. I wish knew about Suqqu sooner. How I want this palette. I notice you did not depot these shadows. I will only comment on The Japanese brands. Not happy with this app.

  5. HAHAHAHA Narcissistic itch!!! Gosh! I can just imagine how much work this took!!! Thanks for doing this Belly, i have the same problem with 2 varying eyes... my eyeshadows never turn out the same on either eyes.... someday i swear i'll perfect applying eyeshadow with my left hand! Yours turned out awesome, now i'm fully enabled to go out and BUY MORE SUQQU!!!

  6. Hey Belly, I has teh disqus now :)

    Maybe I'll try my hand at this... I certainly need to experiment more with placement!

  7. You look stunning and your skin is perfection. Great tutorial as well! :)

  8. You should do more of these tutorials, Belly. I love seeing more of your face!

  9. :) Eeee! Thank you Adele! <3

  10. I wish I were more interested in this brand when I used to actually make it over to Japan. It would have been nice to see the old old quads (prior to the Kakitsubata generation). They had some very elegant and poetic color compositions that I would have loved to have gotten my hands on.
    This quad is a pretty recent aquisition, and I have a bit of rearranging my free-from palettes again and make them all fit. This will definitely get depotted.
    By app, I guess you mean Disqus? Again, very sorry to hear that. But at this point, I'm pretty happy with how it is working. Did you see that Claire posted a video to a Chicca tutorial? I mean, that is cool! I love features like that, in addition to being able to edit my misspelling and stuff. :D Change is good!

  11. I think this will definitely work with non SUQQU for sure!!! (and then one day you get one of those palettes) Any dark matte, plus sheerer shimmer shades will all work. This is very much like the Le Metier de Beaute couches du coleur technique for their kaleidoscopes, except their shadows are much more pigmented. :D Thank you for reading and I hope you post a post on your blog if you do try this out. <333

  12. AH CLAIRE, thank you for posting this video (and thinking of me)! I've never seen Chicca tutorials before on line, but I knew that the Surratt smoky is a dupe of the Chicca one. I do like how sheerly the color applies, but I think in essence, I can do that also with a couple of other of my fluffy loosely bundled brushes (namely SUQQU L). But, ooh, that finished eye look is very pretty. I need to try this out.
    (btw, I don't moderate comments, except for ones containing media like videos. In case, you are posting pr0n or something. :P )

  13. (post face, post face, post face) x 10. repeat repeat repeat. :) It didn't take too long, since I had a very sunny day (so focused pictures). I love how the day I post something on application, my eyes end up so completely uneven! XD LOL! Oh dumbo me. Oh, going ambidextrous and applying with the other hand might do something interesting!

  14. YOUDIDEET. You are Disqufied. :D
    I love that I have at least one brain-free placement that works almost all of the time.

  15. Oh thank you, my gorgeous Nicole! If I had eyes as beautiful as yours, I would do something different.

  16. Such a pretty palette! Too bad it's d/s......I heard that the newer palettes are getting steerer?

  17. :D If you want more face, more face there will be! Bwahahahahah!

  18. Yes, this one is hard to come by now. Sad it is no longer available at the counter.
    I think the new palettes are not uniformly pigmented or unpigmented! Some are definitely on the sheer side (EX-25 from the Chiffon collection, comes to mind as does Yomogiiro 17), but the recent 18 Sakuraori is very pigmented and might even be more pigmented than my preference for sheerer eye shadows!

  19. Ah, Belly! I am but a poor, backwoods Texas-girl, yet I yearn to adopt your exotic, elegant ways!

    Truly, though, this is beautifully done, particularly for someone who doesn't like to do step-by-step tutorials. ;) Beautiful lady, beautiful job! Is "belly-lust" a thing? If not, it is now!

  20. Is Belly Lust like doing to an all-you-can-eat buffet? BC that is what I did last night. It's BELLY LUST all day long! ;)
    I'm glad you liked the post. Harrumph. It amuses me that you call yourself a "backwoods Texas-girl." HaaaaarrrrrrUMPH!

  21. Well, here in rural Central Texas, we're not all fancified like them gals up in Dallas, y'know? ;) *scratches 'n spits*

  22. Very pretty!
    From my Mac, the color looks like more of an aubergine but now it shows up bluer from a window. Either way, so so pretty. ;)

  23. Thank you so much for this!! Most of the time I'm a little overwhelmed after the third shade and so many of my quads don't live up to their full potential in my hands. Would you say the newer quads are harder to figure out placement?

  24. *IZ UNDED* But please, do not surprise me with your secret garlic stash!

    Belly faces and Mizuaoi, two of my favorite things in one post! You seriously look good with just bases or a full face of makeup!

    Seeing Mizuaoi the unicorn quad makes me wonder: has Suqqu hit a creative roadblock made of shimmers and shimmers only? Their recent quad offerings aside from Yukiiichigo of Holiday 2014 lack the textural complexity and magical color pairings that used to be trademarks of the company. What happened to the possibility of duochromes, mattes, shimmers, and sparkles coexisting under one compact? Is the entire spectrum of greens banned from Suqqu? The upcoming Suqqu summer 2015 trios are more snooze inducing than the onslaught of campaign stump speeches. Zzzzz....Spare me a drop of Boulevardier before I keel over from boredom!

    Psss...I love my RBR order! Sweet Dust Seriema is already nursing a slight dip of pan. Oy vey! And the two lipsticks Musings and JWA? Long gone are their pointy tips!

  25. Le Genou de ClaireApril 21, 2015 at 4:42 PM

    Oh, Belly... you know me and my love for pr0n of all kinds :-D

    I know, that eye look is super gorg, makes me thinking of Chicca a lot, actually. Darn all these Asian brands!!

  26. Hmm, I shall need you put you on my disqus white list so you can post all your glitter porn all the time. The Chicca does look super sheer and glittery, but damn it! Now I need to look at another brand! >:(

  27. Am Korean by ethnicity. I practically ooze garlic from my pores all day long! Wait. Does this mean you & I can no longer be friends, Josie! D:
    Mizuaoi is very much a unicorn, but I remember when it first came out, I wasn't all that into it. Probably bc I don't really like blues. Now that it is nigh impossible to get a hold of, of course my NEED-meter ratchets up into high gear. Am MESSED up!
    I agree, Yukichiigo (Yuchiigucci? Yukicigo?) is pretty much the most incredibly beautiful quad and inspired color composition I've seen in the while! That one, I must hoard away so that in stolen moments I might stare and act all Gollum over it.
    I am curious about the lack of greens! They did have the most incredible greens I see in the 1st generation of quads. I would love to see some of those back. Although, I have green aversion, too! I think it brings out the Kermit in me.
    Wait, how are you point-less already with those RBR lipsticks?! I wear them often now, and I still have that weird concave tip and the point.


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