Friday, October 3, 2014

Tom Ford Eye Color Quad in Cocoa Mirage

Cocoa Mirage might not be the quad you were expected me to post about today.  Yet, here it is, because I've been really using this (and spoiler alert: really liking it). 
 
A rambly post ahead, but still with some structure.  First a chat about Cocoa Mirage.  Second, a look for other Tom Ford similar quads.  Third, a chat about "layerability" compared to SUQQU.  Fourth, comparison to other "good" mattes.  And finally, a face/look spam-fest!

Chat about Cocoa Mirage:
Cocoa Mirage is very unique in the Tom Ford eye shadow quad line up, missing the glitter shade (or two!) and featuring three mattes and one shimmery shade.  Not really sure why I passed this one up in the original launch of the brand, nor why I kept on passing by it, but I do have a demonstrated soft spot for complex shimmers and this is definitely not that.
(Unrelated rant:  Argh!  My new macro lens picks up dust I can not even see with my naked eyes.  I tried to zap them out but my 6 year old Macbook Pro is unable to handle all the graphics powering requirements and too slow with photo editing.)
I do like how hefty these quads are from Tom Ford.  Having recently felt up Charlotte Tilbury items in person, the comparison esthetically vastly favors Tom Ford.  Of course, one pays a very hefty price for this heft.
Packaging aside, how are the colors and how do the colors perform? 
It is not the softer, smoother and more unctuous texture of some of the later releases like Orchid Haze, Enchanted (dc) or Nude Dip but compared to the original generation of the Tom Ford quads, the quality is very good.  The issue with matte shades, specifically, is that there is a tendency for dryness and a chalky application effect on the skin.

In the case of Cocoa Mirage, I found the texture and feel of the matte shades to be very good, with pigmentation I find easier to work with, meaning not very pigmented and easy to blend.  They are super fine in texture easy not to overblend when I apply on my eyes. 

The swatches, clockwise from top left of the quad:
  • a very pale and opaque matte warm white. 
  • matte yellow toned tan. 
  • a dark matte warm brown.
  • a warm, red-toned brown with red shimmer.
A closer look at the shimmer shade in the quad, which has a beautiful texture and shimmer which is not complex, actually monotonal, but very pretty.

Other Tom Ford Comparison:
Dupey dupe abound?  I own several warm toned brown quads from other brands, but I see that within my Tom Ford collection, Cognac Sable might be somehow vaguely related.  But the very intense glitter, lack of matte and more distinctive orange tones clear indicate they are not really all that related.  No comparison swatches...so.
Ah, Cognac Sable, it be quite gleamy in the light.  I'm blinded!

Layerability:
I also compared it to SUQQU Matsukasa, another very warm brown palette, also a matte, satin, shimmer mix of shades.
What I actually did observe (and hopefully captured on camera) is the differences in layerability.  I know I tend to go on and on about how beautifully SUQQU layers (in every SUQQU post ever), but it was interesting to see how similar shades and finishes between SUQQU and Tom Ford layer to such different effect.

Take a look.  The SUQQU is on the left and Tom Ford is on the right.
Even though the shimmer in that dark shimmer shade in Tom Ford is pretty strong and distinct, it all flattens out to a very subdued shade when all the Tom Ford shades are layered one on top of the other.

Seems to me that the sheerer (and to me still even airier than Tom Ford) texture of the SUQQUs  allow the shimmers and the color differences of each shade to show more distinctly.  Hence the final layered SUQQU swatch shows a lot more distinction and complexity.

Now a Matte Matte Matte Matte Matte ramble:

I ended up taking a closer look at the matte dark brown shade in Cocoa Mirage to other very good mattes I own: Rouge Bunny Rouge, SUQQU and a KIKO Infinity single.
Of the ones I compared Rouge Bunny Rouge by far had the smoothest, most buttery (GAH!  hate that word) feel.  The pigmentation on this one is even and dense and applies like a dream.  There is absolutely no chalkiness, no extra ploof of dust when picked up with a brush in the pan.

KIKO on the other hand was also smooth but unlike RBR, kicked up a good bit of extra dust in the pan.  Pigmentation, not as strong as RBR, but can be built up on the skin.  As a more reasonably priced item, I still think the value is quite good on this one.

Matsukasa swatches weird, but applied over the pale base shade in the quad, it applies like a dream.  This is the least pigmented and the lightest in feel compared to the rest here.

Tom Ford is all around terrific.  Good pigmentation, nice texture, even application and excellent blendability.  Minimal dust kick up as well.

Are you still wondering which one is the best and if anything is truly worth it?  *shrug*  Dunno.

A Delicious Kimchi and SPAM-fest:
All I can tell you is that I am wearing Cocoa Mirage in each of these three looks.  Everything else, I have no recollection.  (bad bad bad bad bloggarrrrr)

Look One:



 Look Two:

 Look Three:

 

If you made it to the end, congratulations.  You did it!

This quad has been out a while.  Do you also own this one, too?  I am awful late into this aren't I?  What are some of your very favorite warm brown palettes and mattes.  I want to know!

29 comments :

  1. Hey Belly, I think you just sold this one to me LOL I too have completely ignored it, although it's not as if I owned a TF quad (yet! I just haven't seen anything that I need). I like the lack of glittery shade, and this just looks faaaab on you!

    ReplyDelete
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    1. :DD SCORE! Sunny, isn't this such a sleeper in the line? It's very easy to ignore it since there are so many blingtastic quads in the line (plus all those hard to buy LE eye stuff). Hope you like it (if you buy it!)

      Delete
  2. I don't buy matte shades, but I bought this one right before the price went up again. I haven't got a chance to use it, but is swatches nice and smoothly at the counter. I am a bling bling glitter girl. I like your new camera. See close up pics of you better.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Bling bling is also major weakness of mine. But sometimes it is so nice to be able to go out in the sunlight and not worry about blinding people with the reflected glitter! :DD
      The camera is not new, but the lens is new! I'm glad you are liking the picture quality!!

      Delete
  3. A Beautiful quad! I read in a magazine that Tom Ford makeup line will launched in Greece, although I wish-prefer Nars. My fave is Dior Beige Massai

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    1. Amalia,
      Ahhhh! Now that Dior quad is truly a unicorn. That one looks beautiful. Is there no Nars availability in Greece? That's a bummer. I hope you can take away the pain with a little bit of Tom Ford.

      Delete
  4. Hi, thanks for this review! I haven't purchased this quad yet as I thought Matsukawa was all I needed. I pulled up your Matsukasa review and it seems this quad is warmer. What do you think this quad does that Matsukasa does not? And which do you prefer? Thanks in advance...I've been diddling over purchase for quite a while as it is a hefty chunk of change!

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    Replies
    1. Hi there! Matsukasa leans very warm because the dark matte shade is the "anchor" of that quad and is very warm. It has the cooler taupey shade with the shimmer that moderates that warmth a bit when worn layered.
      I'm guessing if you are happy with Matsukasa, you wouldn't be missing a ton if you passed on Cocoa Mirage. It's a bit hard to compare as the textures and pigmentation and the layering capability when compared are so different across the two quads!
      From what I am experiencing, Matsukasa is best worn layered and Cocoa Mirage is best worn in more distinct placements (ie. out v, crease, etc).

      Delete
    2. Thank you, Belly, for your very thoughtful answer. With my hooded lids, I don't much distinct placement so you helped me save money to buy something else! :)

      Delete
    3. 😃 go forth and buy more Suqqu!

      Delete
  5. I have re-fallen in love with my Armani ETK #2 palette, Terra Sienna. I thought it was too red (and had it up for swap), but decided to give it another try and I LIKES IT.

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    Replies
    1. LP, Terra Sienna looks gorgeous! And the two dark mattes in that quad look to have some incredible pigment. I've never tried any Armani makeup, now that I think about it.

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  6. I also bypassed this quad initially but succumbed last year. It looks boring and kinda ho hum on the counter but is a very sophisticated neutral eye, with more pop if you need it with the reddish brown shade. I really like it and probably wear it more than my (embarrassingly) many other TF quads. I would be very happy if they released the pale cream shade as a single because I love it that much and know it will go before the others.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It totally does look boring at the counter! I get very distracted by the shiny new things and CM is not very shiny! ;P Do you have a good dip in the pale cream? I never worry about hitting eye shadow pan. :(

      Delete
  7. It's not easy for mattes to look good and this one looks great! In fact, this is the only Tom Ford quad I have. I like it very much, but it didn't wow me so much that I'm lemming for another Tom Ford quad >_<

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    1. <.< If I lived in Asia still, I'd just be gobbling up all the Asian makeup. Screw the Tom Ford!

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  8. You look lovely in all three looks! This was sold out when I last visited HK, and the SA recommended Cognac Sable as an alternative, which I did end up getting, but at the time, I was totally thinking they are very much non alternatives to each other. Now you've proved that CM should remain high on the wishlist!

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    1. Cognac Sable is like the glitter-hussy cousin of Cocoa Mirage! There is definitely a time and a place for it, but for my boring ways, CM is easier to wear on a regular basis.

      Delete
  9. Hi Belly, I have this one it doesn't look that nice on me but after seeing you wearing it, wow, i may have to revisit it! The undertones of these really flatter your skin. On me they turn a little muddy somehow,

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Ms Sara! Thank you for your flattery! ;D I think you have more neutral tones on your skin than I do. You can carry off all the very cool blues & purples compared to me... and PINKS! *cry cry cry*
      I thought you looked so beautiful in your CM review, Sara. On the other hand, only you can wear the bright colors like the YSLs that you do!

      Delete
  10. I've been thinking about thidbquad for AGES, debating between this and the Burberry version. Helppppppp.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Burberry Singles > Tom Ford quads > Burberry Quads. <--iz my opinion and I sticking to it.

      Delete
  11. Hehe, you glamorous people and your TF palettes ;-) someday I'd like to own one. Someday he'll bring back that She Wolf one, right? ... RIGHT?!?!

    I definitely see what you mean about the layerability thing. i find it to be a hazard of some mattes especially that they seem to just muddy and flatten things you put with them. This could be due to my lack of application skills though, so take that with a grain of salt!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Weak constitution plus grabby hands is a very dangerous combination of human failings. I haz it. I haz it in spades! :D

      If my Ford brings back Enchanted (as he did in Asia), or Platinum cream shade (for this Holiday), I think he might bright She Wolf back!

      Delete
  12. Oohhh.. aaaahhh... look no. 1 is esp buttery good! Love this on you. I think the browns here are quite warm, reminds me a lot of Kaska Beige. And that macro lens is paying off big time, love all your pictures as well!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I seriously don't have much application skill or technique, so this mostly applied and blended itself! :D

      I think Kaska Beige has that strong plum tone in the darkest shade. That's a gorgeous palette, too!

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  13. Wow. I have underestimated the ability of Cocoa Mirage to produce such a harmonious symphony of browns! The interplay of the mattes and shimmer earns a visual, textural, AND olfactory comparison to a mélange cashmere scarf steeped in Bottega Veneta's Eau de Parfum. Every look you demonstrate is just pure perfection.

    Erm, I might have to get this quad!

    -Josie

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Josie, this is a total sleeper in the Tom Ford range! :D

      Delete

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