Monday, February 3, 2014

THREE Cream Shade Conundrum

I think there is a bit of a learning curve related to the cream shades in the THREE 4D eye palettes and duos.  One concern is the lasting power, which is valid.  They are doing pretty well on me applied over the Nars Pro Prime primer.  Because WINTER IS HERE, my lids are also relatively drier than normal, though still prone to fading and creasing things without primer.  I'm anxious to see (since I own a boatload of these now) how they perform in the summer when I am more of oily combination skin type.

The other thing is how best to apply the cream shades.  I mentioned in earlier posts how silky and easy they are to apply and map out a shape on the lids, but I don't think I ever went into any detail about what applicators I use to achieve happiness.  If you have been persuaded recently to take the plunge on the THREE palettes, you may be scratching your head about application and have concerns about color payoff.

And because WINTER IS HERE, I thought I'd show off my new home office set up.  And SNOW.  FONKING MORE SNOW.  Hibernation time. *yawn*
Some brushes and assorted applicators I've pulled out to demonstrate.  We will be playing with Star Guitar today, because -- pretty.
Detail-type eye brushes are my applicators of choice to work with the cream shade.  I've pulled several, including the flat, firm dual-end applicator enclosed in the case (the one that has the sponge at the end). There are variety of hair types.  The E.L.F and the enclosed ones are synthetic.    The two red Chikuhodos are kolinsky I lied, 6-1 is kolinsky and 2-3 is nylon and sobel hair, and the Hakuhodo K005 is weasel.
Viewed side-ways, all of these brushes are short-haird with very flat profiles:
They all have various levels of give, softness and firmness.  I have a vast preference for the kolinsky because --NICE.  And also delicate soft hair, but firm.  The synthetics are ok, especially the E.L.F, but the smooth cuticle-less nature of the bristles pick up the pigment less well compared to the natural hair.

You might also wonder why I'm not using a more multi-pupose brush like the Tom Ford Blending brush or the Suqqu F.  For the intensity and accuracy of the pigment deposit I am looking for, these are not going to do it.
Let me show you what I mean.  The below brushes are what I am going to use to demonstrate the application of the cream.  I've excluded some brushes among the flat detail ones, because I tend to use them interchangeably.  You can see each of the brush heads have some color picked up on it.
In the same order, I've swatched the cream on my arm.
Since pictures tell a thousand words, I think you can see for yourself.  The Tom Ford might be great if the look you want is diffused, but I really had to work the brush into the skin to deposit the cream.  (Also, brush dirty now!  the cream is embedded in to the hairs.   Gah, hate washing brushes).  I do like the Suqqu F for the precise but smooth deposit of the cream, but the most impressive in terms of pigmented application would be the E.L.F. and Chikuhodo.

You might ask me, why would I spend so much money on Chikuhodo versus an E.L.F,  and I won't really have a great answer for you.  :D I can freely admit, YUM, pretty red dinky brushes!  I also reserve the E.L.F to clean up my manicures, so I won't to putting that near my lids anytime in the near future.

Seriously disappointing would be the enclosed applicator.  Hello, why bother?  I do not recommend this as your applicator.

Sorry my pictures are so over-exposed!  But here is the finished eye using all the shades.  It's substantially more dramatic in real life.
 
Here is how the cream shade was applied and used as a base to shape the definition on the lids.  I like how the flat paddle shape can work easily into the weird nooks and crannies on my eye lids.
I then layered the other shades above the cream and the rest of my mobile lid.  I also used the thin edge of the detail brush to line my lower lash line with the cream.

There done!
Of course, since now you can pick up and apply the cream intensely, you can easily use the cream as an eyeliner as in the first look of this post.

Can you tell I just started watching Game of Thrones?  How many times WINTER IS COMING?!

39 comments :

  1. So many things to say! LOVED your 30 things post. We have a LOT in common, lady!
    Also, LOVE your view from your desk. :)
    Also, that purple from Star Guitar is just the MOSTEST.
    Also, LOL at Game of Thrones references.

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    1. Kelly, are you my Bacon-Cheddar sister? :) It's a very relaxing view, apart from the dogs walking by and pooping in the woods.

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  2. I love the brush comparison! Also your tutorial is most excellent, especially step 2!

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    1. I didn't want people to have uneven eyes. :P

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  3. This post is meant to be for me? Lol. I just got Star Guitar and tried to apply cream with fingers (which I always do) and failed miserably. But seriously I won't apply that cream with such a small applicator, then it takes hours on my lid space :-p have to find a bigger denser brush! Thanks soo much for showing this, really very very helpful *hugs*

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    1. Oh! I can't wait to see your post on this! You have an enviable amount of lid space! I bet you would get on nicely with one of the larger paddle shaped kolinsky ones. I bypassed the Chikuhodo reds that were bigger because it would overwhelm my lids! I'm glad this was helpful!!! I was having a conversation with a friend on Chikuhodo brushes and cream eye shadows.

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  4. Could I move in with you? Winter is not so pretty from 22nd floor, when the only thing you can admire are snow-capped metal roofs and various pipes. Branches are so much better than pipes...

    But yes, pretty brushes, pretty cream eye shadows... I like!

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    1. You can definitely move in! Right away. But then you give up the city, which is sad. :)

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  5. I love how well your post shows what a difference in application a brush can make.

    And now I'm going to go and copy that shading technique (as best I can, of course) RIGHT NOW.

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    1. I have a very flat east Asian face (even my lids). I like the shading which brings a little contour to my lids! I learned this on Jung Saem Mool videos.

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  6. Love your detailed explanation, Belly :-) I think THREE cream shadows will be a no no for me here. It'll probably melt as I apply it. HAHAHAHA!
    And I'm going to wait a few months before watching GoT. I hate the suspense... and I can play catch up later when I don't have to wait for 1 week before the next episode!

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    1. I'm really glad I'm only on episode 5 of the first season now, so that I can happily binge watch with no end in sight. :D Winter Came.

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  7. Just keep rubbing the fact that you have snow in my face! Gaia did the same thing. I told my kids "hey look how much snow those lucky dogs are getting?!". You see I LOVE snow but all we ever have around here in the winter is rain, rain, and more rain, yuck. I would much rather have snow! I'm envious of all of you in the east. :)

    What a pretty color from THREE. Sadly, I cannot wear purples with that much red in it but it really does look gorgeous on you. I wish THREE or Addiction would make a wonderfully pigmented blue-based purple, I would snatch it up in a heartbeat! BTW do you remember which lipstick you are wearing? That's really pretty as well.

    Stay bundled up and warm!

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    1. :( there is another giant pile coming tonight into tomorrow. FIrst snow is always beautiful and magical. The next ones are yuck!
      I'm wearing SURRATT Lipslique in Perfectionniste (washed out in the pictures).

      I'm wearing my long underwear of course, being very toasty.

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    2. All snow is magical to me probably because we get so very little of it. But then again we live in the country, maybe that's why. :) I had a feeling that was a Surratt lipslique you were wearing but I was guessing Hevyn. It really is pretty! I have Gamin and need to pull it out today and put it on since you reminded me of it. I need a new organizational system because I keep losing/forgetting all of my new items. :(

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    3. :) Snow in the countryside is indeed very magical!
      The colors are all washed out here (the lipstick and the eyes). I find all sorts of lipsticks rolling around in various bags, it's always like rediscovering an old friend! HEY ALMOST LIKE NEW LIPSTICK! :) Good thing for my poor short term memory.

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  8. Pictures looking good, Belly. ;) I'm going to Japan next month (I think!) and I can't wait to finally get to try these things. So pretty.

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    1. Thanks Carina! I'm having challenges doing manual focus while holding something with one hand.

      Japannnnn! Go touch and swipe your fingers through every single everything for us! Have fun!

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  9. Dear Belllyy...I no liketh you much now..first, you looking prettty..and then the home office desk space that's uncluttered and sane..and with a lovely view too...hmmmmmmmmmmmmph...not liking you at alllllllllllllllls :| :P :D :D

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    1. :P pbhpththptbhththt
      Rads, I find it so easy to remain uncluttered and organized when the camera strategically avoids the big old pile just out of shot.

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    2. Haaahaaaaa...so THAT'S the secret :D :D Okay..I might like you just a teeeeeny bit now :D

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  10. Love this entry and now I realise I need more brushes!!! Now about your fantastic window, you gotta admit, isn't it great to be looking out at the snow falling wearing flip flops? :D :D :D

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    1. There IS something magical looking out at the snow wearing flip flops, but it was too cold for flip flops! I think my feet got old. I stuffed foot warmers into my fuzzy slippers to maintain some warmth. It's freezing in that room.
      Good brushes make such a difference. Also funny is how my obsessive qualities are right on view: collecting the same type of thing over and over again.

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  11. I'm watching GoT too! Totally influenced by my bf, otherwise I'm the japanese drama/random YT documentary type. I thought the spongey tip was the part you were supposed to use for the creamy shades? I remember seeing on THREE's website the creator telling the girl to use a sponge tip to dot the cream on before blending with another shade over it. Unless I hallucinated all that :S with me falling asleep at 530am...it's possible.

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    1. I think the THREE videos are only in Japanese right? :( I am generally not a fan of sponge type applicators. For some reason, even for swatching for the blog, sponge applicators apply hardly any color on my skin. How well does the sponges work for you?

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  12. A room with a view! Magnificent! Love your post-really demonstrates the power of a good brush and the right brush for a particular product.Crazy question-the Three duo's -is one of them meant to be a creM or is the cream type shade only in the quads?xx

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    1. I believe the old product description on the website described it as a cream to layer over with the powder shade. I'm wearing Love Fascination today and the dark side is definitely a cream. The site currently describes the 4 new duos as:
      Introducing an eye palette with a perfectly streamlined, minimalist look. The CORE COLOR with delicate pearls (left) changes into a powdery texture on the skin to build a frame and adds definition and dimension to the eyes. The highly pigmented but beautifully translucent LOVE COLOR (right) blends in with the CORE COLOR to bring a peaceful look to the eyes.

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  13. Lovely pictures :)

    But boo! I have no view from any workspace and you have pretty snow on tree branches to look at.

    I need to get that 2-3 brush now. I'm lemming the suqqu F brush but I don't know if it's going to be too big for my tiny lid space and worth the splurge since I hardly ever use the suqqu L coz so big even though it feels lovely.

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    1. Thank you, Linda! Means a lot coming from you. Home office view is nice. Work office view is a wall with a door, in an interior windowless office. It's truly depressing.

      F is pretty small I think. As a lay down brush, I like it. L is HUGE! I use it but it's not the most versatile brush due to its size and my lids! :D BUT SO FLOFFY!

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  14. this was pretty eye opening for me actually. i mean, it makes sense that different brushes have different abilities to deposit product but i'm /so/ lazy about thinking about these things. clearly make-up is /not/ about the details for me lol. i wish i were better at that. and at using the range of brushes i have to really create defined looks. when i /do/ bother, i'm always really pleased by how all the colors and things are placed but it takes SO much time do it that way and just not realistic in the mornings :(
    this was a great quality post!
    and hello winter!!! we're getting something similar in Toronto but its slowly thawing out.
    Jenn

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    1. I'm not all that detailed, Jenn! I usually end up coming to a realization by accident. :) I have yet to master a 5 minute face. I take 5 minutes to do just my base, all because I spend time staring off into space vacantly.
      Hope winter passes soon for both of us! :)

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  15. I almost missed a good laughter. You should use bigger fonts for the text! (I'm talking about "skinny flat suckers" LOL)
    I used to think I had to use fingertips to use cream formulations. Time of ignorance...
    The initial eyeshadow placements are really nice. I love how soft yet dimensional it looks after blended out! :)

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    1. I use fingers a lot for cream shadows, too! Also the Shu Uemura 5R, another kolinsky in a long thin barrel shape is also excellent for cream products and very precise.

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  16. Loving the better photos, Belly!! ♥

    Also, I think this post couldnt have come at a better time. I'm having the hardest time with Chanel's illusion d'OMbre in Diapason. I can't seem to apply it on my lids the way I want to - my fingers are failing me at the moment. Thanks for the brush suggestions and for doing this experiment, definitely helped me heaps!

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    1. Oh thank you thank you! Do you use the included applicator from the Illusion D'Ombre as well? I like those because you can scoop out enough cream with in and then use the flat side to apply. And then you blend it with a blending brush and you are all set.

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  17. OK, brushes. But, Belleh, I would KILL to have a home office like this! *dreams away*

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    1. It's a beautiful view, but quite possibly the coldest room in the house. *SHIVERS VIOLENTLY*

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  18. Love your office set up and oh wow that view!!!!! Lucky!!! This was such a fantastic post…I guess I kinda knew how much of a difference brushes make, but seeing that in person makes it much more real!!

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