Saturday, November 23, 2013

Red or Red? Suqqu Creamy Glow 17 Ichijiku and 18 Karakurenai

Can't leave a series label up with only one post in it, so here is a second one.  Last time I looked at Guerlain Rouge G in Gracy compared with a slightly warmer and infinitely softer tones of Guerlain Rouge G Briliant in Bianca to try to figure out why certain things look better on me.  I don't think I've cracked any codes, but today let's take a look at another one of my favorite lipstick formulas.  Today is the now sadly discontinued Suqqu Creamy Glow in two very different reds: Ichijiku a dark, and warm brown brick red and Karakurenai, a more balanced but leaning cool red.  (More detailed thoughts on this beautiful formula here)
Just like last time, here is my fully made up noggin sans lipstick.  I look pretty bare, but I really am wearing a boatload of makeup.
Chantecaille Future Skin foundation in Chamomile (here).  (I'm almost out!  Immediate repurchase is required)
Ellis Faas concealer in 203 under eyes and under nose. (here)
Suqqu Nuancing Loose Powder in Natural  (here)
Guerlain Perles du Dragon to finish
Suqqu Brow Pen in Moss Green (here)
Laura Mercier Caviar Stick in Grey Pearl on lid and lower lash line. (here)
Physicians Formula 2-1 Liner in Ultra Black on upper lash line
Lancome Hypnose Drama waterproof on upper lashes only.
Tom Ford blush in Ravish (here)
Just very simple so as not to distract from the lipstick onslaught.  I really like Tom Ford Ravish, which again does a nice job of defining without overtaking a look.

First up is the deeply dramatic Ichijiku.  It is quite brown, which theoretically is kind of unattractive outside of the 90's (but making a recent comeback).  What I like about the color is that it is harmonious with all the warmth that is naturally prevalent in my skin.  Dramatic, and also not really.
Here is the full face.  Ichijiku is definitely there, and dramatic but doesn't necessarily overly dominant.  Or at least that's what I'm assessing.  I like how warm my eyes look, and how everything looks defined but not with crazy eyes!  (as opposed to Guerlain Gracy made me look a little off kilter here)

Karakurenai has a similar level of color saturation.  This is really just one swipe evenly applied with a brush.  With a second layer of color, it becomes completely denser and richer looking.  It is looking a bit warm here in this light, but I find it cooler in tone in most lights.
It looks one way when without the context of the rest of my face and another way altogether with:
A truly beautiful red to be sure, but less in seamless harmony with my features.  It's totally all about the lips which totally dominates the face.  I feel as if the shadows on my face stand out more, as do the random discolored spots and old scars.

Here's the faces side by side.  You know, so I can totally spam the crap out of this post with my face.
I feel like there's something I'm starting to learn about color saturation/opacity and then color warmth that's ultimately making a color perfect (or not) on me.  I've not pinned it down yet, but it's starting to feel tantalizingly clearer to me.

Have you pinned down what red works for you?  (I haven't!)

I think my next compare contrast might be neutral v. warm foundation.  Because my skin tone confuses me.

27 comments :

  1. OMG both are stunningly beautiful on you! I tend to like plummy ones more myself but haven't had the guts to wear them in ages. :)

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    1. Thanks Helene! I love all manner of deep lipsticks. It's cold weather, time to break out all the plummies!

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  2. these are beautiful colors! (and i disagree with you on the shadow standing out on your face whatsoever.) :)
    i do agree the texture and the opacity play a big part especially when it comes to red lippies. i used to think i had to keep blush or eyeshadow to be bare minimum to pair with red lippie, but now i wear neutral colors together to balance out the whole look and i feel i look better this way.

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    1. I think there are ways to balance everything out. I like the neutral colors with a red lippie, too! Or the smokey eye for the extra oomph. There's so many ways to make a red lipstick work. :)

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  3. Suqqu Ichijiku wins hands down! It makes a statement but isn't harsh.
    You can certainly wear both, but #17 is just more flattering.

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    1. Thank you Buggsie Bee! 17 is very easy to wear for me. :)

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  4. Sigh... they both look incredibly stunning! I wish they weren't discontinued.

    From my experience, red can be worn as a statement (on the face) as well as an accessory (for the whole outfit). So different shades of red can work if I tweak around not only my natural (and seasonal) color but also the outfit coordination. So for shade that tends to go along with my natural color, I find tonal makeup looks the best (softer everything and a red lip). But for shades that tend to clash, then bring out the clash further with another bold feature. For example, the look of Michele Williams in that F/W Louis Vuiton ad is exceptionally striking! (http://imabeautygeek.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/michelle-williams-louis-vuitton-close-up-crop-2.jpg).
    Then I talk to myself whether I want my red lips to be a 'centrepiece' or to harmonize with the whole outfit. Then it comes to whether to draw it perfectly precise with a brush or to dab it as a stain, or to choose a sheer formula for a juicy wash. Naturally, I won't leave the non-flattering shade as a sole 'centrepiece' without either pairing it with something equally striking or toning it down. Technique wise, I tend to draw my lips fuller in the center but smaller in the corner to make it still look full but less obviously 'on-my-face'. My normal routine for Guerlain Garconne (slightly bluer than #18) is a clear complexion, cat eyes draws with liquid eyeliner, nude eye base with fluttery long and black eye lashes. Accompanying accent would be a tonal red nail polish or a piece of red clothes. For Burberry Deep Burgundy (darker and a bit more berry than #17), it would be a contoured face, matte complexion, a tad of blush, fill-in bold brows and hazy eye shadow with no strict liner. Accompanying pallette would be a deep jewel tone (no red) and vamp accessory or nail polish.

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    1. That LV ad! Michelle Willams looks amazing and that is really about the red lips being the contrasting feature. I agree with Claire, Thao. You put it beautifully. It's about all the different ways to wear a red whether its about harmony or centerpiece and all the other accompaniments in clothing, nail polish, et cetera.
      Sadly, I am not nearly as thoughtful when putting together a face look and tend to be drawn to more simple thoughts of: does this work on my face in the most broadest and general terms. I'd love to sit at your vanity while you put together a look. :)

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  5. <3 <3 <3 I love Ichijiku on you. It's such a glorious colour. You need to visit Japan and wear it amongst the autumn leaves - perfect harmony!

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    1. Rosy, all the leaves fell off and it snowed last night here. I must book that flight to Japan so I can look matchy matchy with beautiful Japan. :))

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  6. First off, I think you NAILED your "zero" look. It is absolutely flawless. ZERO! All I see is skin & more beautiful skin. Pat yourself on the back for that.
    Second off, I agree how Ichijiku somewhat more harmonious on you than Karakurenai. But I also I think sometimes red lipstick is just a matter of how you balance the total makeup. E.g. for Ichijiku, as harmonizing as it is, I really like to see more definition on your brows & eyes to balance the deep, sultry brown tone (btw, Ichijiku is what I want from Burberry Oxblood, but since I don't have access to it anymore, I will be content with Oxblood).
    With Karakurenai, I love a fresh pink on the cheeks (not a dolly pink one) high up on the cheek bones, maybe a bit sparkle on the eyes, just a clean wash of gossamer beige/peach/champagne, maybe a little navy flick. A stand-out red commands a simpler face, but it doesn't mean the rest of the face fades in the background.

    But of course you already know all these. I really think one could never have just one "it" red. In my stash I keep one of each pinky red, wine red, chili red, and deep-brownish red to suit any occasion.

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    1. Pat-a pat-a pat-a pat-a. Gah! I wish Burberry Lip Covers & Velvets worked for me as I love those colors they make. They dry the bejeebus out of my lips. :(
      OOOOOH, I love the idea of the navy flick on the eyes with the Karakurenai. I will really need to dig through my drawers to see if I have a navy liner.
      :) I do have SEVERAL reds of course, as you. I actually do think there is no ONE perfect red, there are many reds.

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    2. Yep, I think I'm almost "done" with Burberry lipstick, had it not for the excellent, sophisticated color (I think it is some of the most wearable, understated colors there is). It is heavily scented v. violet, and really, the formula is not that moisturizing. Like I said, if I could get the Ichijiku, I would.

      Thus, my curiosity of the Surratt line, which I think may be the closest I can get to try in person & have that Japanese formulation.

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  7. We are the same! I don't like warm reds on me either. Not even orange-y ones (which are an obvious DUH NO as far as I'm concerned), but just the slightly warmer ones, I find I do not enjoy. I like reds that are a bit darker and cooler. Which is totally weird because I've always grown up with the certainty that I was yellow-toned. Funnily enough, I DO NOT like warm lip colors, and certainly not warm reds. That said, I prefer Ichijiku on you. My fail-safe red is Guerlain Orgueil (kill me now, so expensive!), which is truthfully too purpley and vampy to be a "true red," but I wear what I like!

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    1. Don't you hate it when your favorites are the most expensive ones! Every time I wax poetic about a Guerlain lipstick, I clutch my wallet and weep a little bit. Orgueil! That's pure drama. Your pillowy lips + drama = HEAVEN!

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  8. Although Karakurenai is a stunner, I agree that Ichijiku suits you better. It just seems to blend seamlessly with the rest of your complexion. Do you reckon its because the brownish tone of the lipstick brings out the browns in your hair/eyes? I'm trying to figure out the whole colour tone/saturation thing as well...
    On a side note, have you tried Burberry's Oxblood? I think it would definitely suit you! Its more red / less brown than Ichijiku so its different enough to own ;p

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    1. I think there is something about the brown tones being so complementary with the eyes/hair, but I do love Claire and Thao's observations about each red and how to use them.
      Oy, Burberry Lip Covers no like my lips so much. Makes me sad.

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  9. OOO my personal favorite is Karakurenai! I might be lucky that way, but I haven't tried a red that looks really bad on me! I know that I can't do TOO much brown, but as long as a red doesn't contain too much brown (though this is really arbitrary), I am fine! I do prefer neutral/cooler/bright reds on myself though. There's something about them that just brightens my face!

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    1. Gargh! Sunny you rock all manner of bright reds bright pinks bright errrrrrything!

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  10. Both of them look gorgeous on you, dear! You have inspired me to fish them out of my l/s stash. ;)

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    1. Thank you, Nicole! You must give them some sunlight on your beautiful lips!

      Hey, these are gone at the counters now, right?

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  11. I love investigations like this. I agree that Ichijiku is the better shade for you, although I think both are gorgeous. It seems to connect with a kind of golden warmth in your complexion, probably because of its warmer undertones. The other looks great, but it's a very clear shade (not combined with brown or grey of any kind) and it doesn't seem to mesh as easily with the rest of your face. I find bold lipsticks can be like that- they're bold precisely because they don't harmonize.

    I'll be curious to see what you find when you do comparisons of foundations. I can usually get away with either cool or warm based, which I guess means I'm close to neutral, but it can make things confusing in terms of colour selection. After all, the first question you're supposed to be able to answer in order to find out what shades work best for you is "are you warm or cool toned?"

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    1. :) Hi Kate. I'm coming to reconcile that bold/clashy not necessarily a bad thing, but also do think that harmonious melding like Ichijiku is going to always remain a favorite.

      Speaking of foundations, I get so confused because I have so much pink in my face and yellow in my neck that it's challenging to figure out what the what. I'm pretty sure naturally I'm yellow. Whether warm yellow or cooler yellow, who the heck know.

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    2. The way always think of it is thus: Makeup companies are constantly comping up with new, better ways to match foundations and concealers to skin tones, so it's just that the technology hasn't caught up with us yet.

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  12. Just looking at the swatches on your arm, I can tell right away that Ichijiku would suit you better and sure enough, in the full-face look, it does. Karakurenai looks so pretty too but it doesn't have any of the warm tones in it that your skin will pick out to ground it and harmonize, does that make sense?

    Karakurenai almost looks like it's floating on your arm in a way Ichijiku doesn't, because it doesn't have any warm tones that will "anchor" it into your colouring. It's beautiful in it's own way and maybe nice for a summer red, when bright and neon colours are more acceptable or if you want a more clashy look. Precisely because of this clashiness, colour on the rest of the face will have to be decidedly neutral, so they don't compete.

    Ichijiku is also also dramatic, after all it is red, but because it melts so easily into your colouring, you will be able to wear colour more easily on the rest of your face as they won't be fighting for attention so much. I think you will even be able to wear colours on your eyes if you pull it off right and they still wouldn't clash. With this one, the possibilites are endless! (Boo to whoever said you can't wear bold lips and eyes, it all depends on your features and they types of colours you use.)

    Just as an example of the reverse explanation about these colours, for me, the opposite situation is true, Karakurenai looks better on me and Ichijiku would make me look ill and tired. The warmth in it is too much for my neutral-cool skin and beyond a certain point of warmth, I start to look sallow because there isn't the enough warmth in my skin to ground the colours. Cleaner, cooler colours harmonize with my colouring and look more natural, so that's what I've learn to pick, although I don't stop trying outside my comfortzone. Occasionally you can be pleasantly surprised.

    I think the whole concept is like complementary colours, they are opposites and don't contain any of each other so they bring each other out more and clash (the whole idea behind choosing eyeshadows to bring out eyecolour), but colours next to each other on the colour wheel pick out bits of each other that they share so they harmonize, which I think is the most flattering concept for lipstick.

    I hope I helped you understand and shone a glimmer of light on the colour conundrum. Did any of what I said make any sense? Sometimes it's difficult to write about colour without actually demonstrating it.

    Eli

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    1. Eli, thank you so much for your awesome comment! I do find certain cool or cool leaning colors do look nice on me, but I think it's a calculated clash that looks nice. I've tried many pinks lately that are very cool that do make me look deathly sallow.

      One thing I do really like is a very warm eye with a very cool pink blush/lips. The calculated clash is kind of nice and because my eye thing is so warm, it grounds the overall look well enough.

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