Thursday, September 5, 2013

Rebuys: Eve Lom and Shu Uemura

I have a pretty set skincare routine that varies very little but every once in a while will introduce a few bits and see how they fare with my skin.  Mostly I try new extra treatment or cleansing products because I've become so set with my AmorePacific for my moisturizing routine. 

I thought that instead of doing an "empties" type of post, it would be good to document things I have repurchased because those would be recent successes.

Eve Lom & Shu Uemura Re-Buys:
L to R) Eve Lom Rescue Mask, Eve Lom Cleanser, Shu Uemura A/O Premium Cleansing Oil, Eve Lom Morning Time Cleanser
A while back, I purchased an Eve Lom kit that contained several of the best-known items and of those in the kit, I've completely finshed them all except for the Kiss Mix Lip Balm.  (I keep the balm at work and use regularly still)  After finishing the products, I've re-bought them all.  In this particular line, the ingredients are pretty mundane, but it's effectiveness and compatibility with my skin has been remarkable.  It is a very pricey line as well.  I think if you have an interest in them, try one of the small kits like me and see if you want to spring for one of the full sized products.  The full-sized Eve Lom also comes in various sizes and of course the larger ones are more value per ounce/gram than the smaller sized ones.

Eve Lom Cleanser
This one is quite famous as a balm-type cleanser.  I was finally convinced to give this one a go after seeing Jan's post on her blog A Few Beauty Products and seeing how it is a mainstay in her cleansing routine.  It is a thick mineral oil-based balm.  It is also not a paraben free product.  Those particularly sensitive or opposed to mineral oil and parabens will most certainly want to avoid this. 

For me, the thick product feels so indulgent and luxurious while being massaged onto my skin.  I like the zing of the eucalyptus as well and it feels very relaxing.  Once massaged on, a hot muslin cloth (also inclued with the cleanser) is applied over the face to gently release the scents and loosen up the balm.  The muslin is used to also exfoliate the skin as you take the balm off.  It is very effective and take everything off.  I don't like it for removing eye makeup, however.  The eucalyptus is much too strong to get near my eyes.  (have done that.  ow.  do not attempt)

For me, no second cleanse is required and really works to clean my skin of all my sunscreens, primers, foundations, clown blush.  And I like how my skin feels clean but not stripped.  I have no tightness or irritation.  Anyway, I do like mineral oil products so there you go.

Eve Lom Morning Time Cleanser
Is a lighter, water-rinsing version of the regular balm cleanser.  It has a thinner consistency that makes a light AM wash easy to do.  This one is paraben free and it looks to be formulated without mineral oil.  I'm surprised how much I really like this cleanser and kind of a bit annoyed with myself to add another product into my skincare routine.  But it seems worth it because in the AM, I wake up with slightly oily skin and I like to start my makeup with fresh feeling skin.  Purity is also what I use, but that makes my skin very dry, and Eve Lom's Morning Time Cleanser is a nice gentle cleanse that doesn't strip my face.
Cap twists to reveal a small hole from which to dispense the product
I was curious to see if this can handle my PM cleanse and take off all my makeup so I made an attempt on that.  On the Sephora site, it does state that it can.  It is a tad less expensive and less of a show (hot water, muslin, massage, wipe wipe) than the regular cleanser so this could have been a good replacement for either the Eve Lom Cleanser or my Shu Uemura Cleansing oil.  But having tried it, I found some small trace amounts of residual makeup when I swiped with Bioderma on a cotton pad.  I think this would work in the evening for light makeup days.

Eve Lom Rescue Mask
I don't normally use masks and not a huge fan of Asian sheet masks either.  I feel like the moisturizing/brightening effect of masks is very ephemeral and doesn't have any real lasting effect the way a daily maintenance skincare routine does.  Since the Rescue Mask came with the kit I orginally had, I used it up.  (Paraben free, this one)  The other use for masks would be for skin clarification and this mask does that job very well for me.

It's a kaolin-clay based mask and this type of clay is well extolled for its oil controlling and skin clarification uses, namely for drying skin, increasing blood circulation, acne fighting.  I use this about once a week, as part of a Sunday night skin pampering ritual, or when I see extra acne breakouts.

The liquid component separates from the clay base so I need to make sure to mix well before use.  Applying it has an odd and very cooling feeling.  The camphor provides a very cooling zing on my skin.  And then as the product dries for 15 or 20 minutes or so, I feel a very funny tingling sensation.  It rinses off by softening up with warm water and wiped off with a wash cloth or muslin cloth.  The wiping with a cloth makes use of the small exfoliating particles distributed in the product.

Since I already use Retin-A which generally keeps my skin in good clear order, Rescue Mask seems to supplement for when I do have occasional breakouts.  I like this mask very much for acne relief but I don't see any long lasting oil-controlling benefits to using this product. 

Shu Uemura Premium A/O Cleansing Oil
This is the older version of the now-reformulated/re-branded Anti Oxi Skin Refining Cleansing Oil.  Oh why do companies do this?  In looking at the ingredients for both (below for your reference), they are vastly different.  Both are mineral oil based but the newer version has all sorts of botanical extracts. 

I've not tried the new version, and I'm sure it's fine and the ingredient list looks interesting, but I am kind of distressed that something I've used for so many years has gone poof!  I no longer see it on the Shu Uemura USA website.  (The more I'm thinking about this, the more upset I am getting!)
old friend.  is dead.
I love many things about the original A/O cleansing oil.  The texture is light enough to apply easily on my face and emulsifies beautifully with water.  It rinses away completely clean without any residue without any over-stripping.  I don't like to double cleanse with this oil because I love the soft and clean feel on my skin after using this.  I've tried many other oils but A/O strikes a perfect balance for my preference in viscosity and rinsability.  A/O oil is such an easy and effective product to use.  I also like the Premium A/O oil as an alternative to the Eve Lom because no big production is required to effectively cleanse my face.

This is a sad day since I'm down to my last big bottle of this cleansing oil.  First world problems, but sad day nonetheless.  But I scored this bottle on the last big sale on it's website, so yay?

What are your favorite cleansers?  Do you oil/balm cleanse?  What do you do when your favorite product gets reformulated?

Ingredients:
Eve Lom Cleanser
Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil), peg-30 Lanolin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Bis-diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Aluminum Stearate, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, peg-75 Lanolin, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Oil, Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Leaf Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Cone Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Eugenol, Limonene.

Eve Lom Morning Time Cleanser
Hydrogenated Polydecene, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Lanolin Oil, Stearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth 20, Phenoxyethanol, Papain, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Oil, Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Cone Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Leaf Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Beta-Carotene, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Palmitate.

Eve Lom Rescue Mask
Kaolin, Water, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., (Mel) Honey, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal, Phenoxyethanol, Camphor, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Calcium Chloride, Magnesium Chloride, Sodium Chloride, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aluminum Chlorohydrate, Allantoin.
 
Shu Uemura Premium A/O Cleansing Oil (ingredients from Makeupalley)
mineral oil, corn germ oil, polysorbate 85, safflower seed oil, cetyl ethylhexanoate, sorbitan trioleate, jojoba seed oil, sea water, squalane, glycerin, macadamia ternifolia seed oil, propylene glycol, tocopherol, limonene, hexyl cinnamal, benzyl salicylate, linalool, butylphenyl methylpropional, alpha-isomethyl ionone, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl oleate, camellia sinensis leaf extract, parfum/fragrance

Shu Uemura Anti/Oxi Cleansing Oil
Paraffinum Liquidum, zea mays, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, carthamus tinctorius oil, polybutene, octyldodecanol, isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, squalane, simmondsia chimemsis oil, macadamia ternfolia seed oil, tocopherol, linalool, citral, glycerin, camellia sinensis leaf extract, ginko biloba extract, lactobacillus ferment, moringa pterygosperma seed extram parfum

12 comments :

  1. Not a huge fan of Asian sheet masks? Hand in your Asian card NAO. :P

    But no, I share your skepticism, even though I hoard my SKII masks. They make your skin look and feel great for the first 10 minutes, but that's pretty much it!

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    1. :( *hands in card*
      I always got confused when I traveled to asia for work and all my coworkers would grab piles and piles of the masks.

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  2. What?? They changed the formula of Shu A/O? I use that stuff all the time. I have the HUGE jumbo sized one sitting next to my sink to be use as a fall-back cleanser. I love that stuff! I wonder how the new one compares to the old one, performance-wise. It looks like the new formula uses more synthetic ingredients and pushed the botanicals to trace amounts (towards the end of the ingredient list). I'm not a synthetic hater, and I love mineral oil. Bring it on, baby!

    I'm intrigued by the Eve Lom Morning Cleanser, sounds to me it is more of a surfactant/foaming type cleanser? I'm with you, I like balm cleanser since second cleansing is hardly needed. I've forgotten the original Eve Lom has eucalyptus in it. This is when I'd fall back to my Shu to take off my eye makeup, then do the rest with the balm cleanser. I think there's only one other balm/oil-based cleanser that I can use to clean both eyes and face makeup (Boots Botanics Organic Face Nourishing Eye Makeup Remover which is sadly discontinued).

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    Replies
    1. The morning cleanser is just a lighter balm and doesn't foam. I'm surprised how I like it! I just wish it were a bit more heavy duty so I can use it for night but it feels fabulous on my skin!

      So grumpy about Shu! Argh.

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  3. I am lookIng forward to try Tatcha cleansing oil. Love my Cle de peau cleansing cream, but it is a bit too expensive and doesn't last that long at all. I love Cle de peau refreshing cleansing foam as well. Those are my faves:). Tried eve lom balm, but couldn't stand eucalyptus scent in it.

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    1. Tatcha felt heavenly rich, but it seems like my skin is not a huge fan of the richer feel in that oil. I loved the Kanebo clansing cream in conjunction with the foaming cleanser until I got too lazy for double cleansing. :))

      It's true, that eucalyptus scent is strong!

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    2. I tried eve lom rescue mask last night and really loved it. Now will be craving it. It is strange but scent in the mask did not bother me at all. Want to try now eve lom morning time cleanser:) Thank you for your wonderful blog! I love it!!!

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    3. Oh! I'm so glad to hear you liked the mask!!! :) Thanks for reading the blog and do let me know if the morning time cleanser is something you end up picking up.

      xoxo

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  4. I am still so curious about trying the Eve Lom cleanser- it sounds like a lovely ritual. Do you throw away the muslin cloths after use, or rinse and re-use them?
    I'm still unsure about the efficiency of my makeup removal/cleansing routine. I've been using a Comodynes makeup wipe, then Cetaphil on a Clarisonic, then a toner for some time now, and it seems pretty lengthy and inefficient. I've tried all manner of oil cleansers, and they either dry me out or break me out (Shu, Fancl, Boscia). This last week, I've replaced the makeup wipe stage with KGD Spa Water, but not sure that's a tremendous improvement. Hmmmm....will the Eve Lom cleanser be the answer?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I rotate among a few muslin cloths. I wash them in the laundry in hot water.

      How do you like the KGD water so far? I got a bottle, but haven't opened yet. There's nothing like a micellaire water for easy effective cleansing for lazy days, but I don't like that it's not so good with waterproof mascara.

      Eve Lom is chock full of mineral oil (like the Shu) so if mineral oil is not your thing then you may not like this one. For me I find them to be super efficient at cleaning and the Eve Lom ritual is so relaxing. It just takes a bit of time and effort, which is why I don't do it every single evening.

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  5. I like the KGD water...I think it's nearly identical to Bioderma Crealine, though it seems to have more beneficial ingredients.

    I really don't mind mineral oil in my lotion, so, hmmm...

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    Replies
    1. try a little jar of the Eve Lom, you may like it! :)

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